Tuesday, March 17, 2009

17th - Pawtuckaway

First off, thank you to Greg's truck, who is now affectionately named Lil' Biscuit. Without Lil' Biscuit, we would have been forced to walk down the 2 mile long unplowed road to Round Pond and Boulder Natural, and this whole trip would have been a bust.
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Dave Grahm's; The Ill Saint - V12/13
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.I came across this problem when I was 14. I looked at it...laughed...and truly understood the prowess of Dave Grahamn. I didn't see any holds...none. I'd seen plenty of boulder problems of the now established difficulty of the Ill Saint by the time I was 14. I knew what v13 holds were supposed to look like. These holds were just really fucking small. Ahead of it's time, the Ill Saint comes in not quite a classic, but still a wicked fun problem to climb on.
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If you like climbing up boulders that are seemingly blank, uninterrupted by climbable features, giving the problem a true granite aesthetic look, please check this problem out next time you are in Pawtuckaway; you'll love it.
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Because the description is a brief and vague in the New England Bouldering Guide....
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Start matched on the dish my left hand is on with a good foot hold way out right.
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Go up to decent hold with right hand...
Bump to a heinously small crimper and get ready for the crux...Left foot (which was previously hangin' out) goes on a small edge which is facing you just under the lip of the small roof.
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Then bring your right foot up near your right hand.
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From here, body tension goes off the charts, and you bring your left hand up to a small crimper which is just up and left from your right hand.....

This was the end of my best effort from the start. From these two crimps, one would go up to the lip with their left and do a rather tricky V7ish topout. Moving to the top is very hard!


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Greg was also pulling hard that day nearly sending a problem adjacent to The Ill Saint;
Dopeman - V8.
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Thus, giving us both good reason to return to Round Pond ASAP



Heel on the starting hold of Dopeman - V8
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We put in the hours this day. Sunrise to sunset.

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